THE MBUGWE

The Mbugwe are Bantu people who live beside Lake Manyara near the base  of the Great Rift Valley.  They are traditionally cultivators and cattle herders. Our visit began with a welcome dance that included a female drummer,  rhythmic bamboo stomping, and call and response vocal.

The Chief led the dancing.

An elder putting some whistle in his dance.

The dancing became spirited as younger members took center stage.

There were abundant gardens. One of the crops is sesame seeds which are sold in local markets.

A woman demonstrated the traditional method of grinding millet.

That night’s meal of beans and millet was being prepared.

Ronald presented our gift of water filters.

Home interior.

For protection against predators, baby goats are kept inside the home until able to take care of themselves.

A pretty mother and her children amidst the festivities.

THE MAASAI

The Maasai are pastoral and nomadic and can often be seen herding their flocks. They are well-known and easy to recognize by their tall slender bodies and their traditional style of dressing. Due to their large population, they wield considerable political power and have been able to carve out pasture land from virgin forest. According to the Maasai, every cow, sheep or goat belongs to the Maasai and not surprisingly, some Maasai men have become very wealthy.  They might choose to live in the city where they have one wife, but back home they may have several wives, as befits their economic standing.

These Maasai boys had recently completed the extremely painful and demanding circumcision ritual to prove their courage as they enter adulthood. We saw groups such as this roaming the countryside seeking congratulations and gifts (like Bar Mitzvah boys). Their faces and bodies were painted black and they wore dark clothing. Some had designs picked out in white paint on their faces. 

The tribal welcome committee was led by a man wearing an elaborate headdress. The Massai women are known for their long necks and beautiful beaded collars.

Maissai men wear light weight English plaid blankets that they drape around their shoulders. It is said that they fell in love with this design while under Colonial rule and the style choice has continued.

Famous for their elaborate bead work, which upscale US stores such as Neiman Marcus carry,  these Massai women gave us a lesson in how to dance as to make your collar bounce.

We found the women to be extremely open and friendly, smiling and laughing easily. We met with the village midwife, the wife of the headman, who had no hesitation about discussing the issue of female circumcision. Despite being outlawed in Tanzania since 1998 it is an ongoing albeit illegal practice, mostly on young girls since the older girls are now refusing to go through the ordeal. Why does the practice persist? Because many of the men will not marry an uncircumcised girl.

No getting around it, the Massai men are handsome, charming and very macho. They treated us to one of their favorite ceremonies…the bleeding of a calf and the drinking of its blood mixed with milk. The artery is punctured by an arrow, staunched by earth and straw and the calf allowed to run away and hide. Care to try some?

Rich took a swig.

Not all was gory. The Maissai men are famous for being able to jump high. Here Rich and Frank try meet the challenge. No way.

Mitch tasted some moonshine. “How many wives do you have?” they asked. He said “one but keep pouring…”

Jason brought his ukulele and entertained the children.

NEXT: THE SERENGETI